Physiologic efficacy and harmlessness in cosmetic hair lotions

Published on Editorials  

The role of Auxina Tricogena®

In our field, chemistry is closely intertwined with biology, as well as with dermatology, pharmaco-toxicology, and cosmetology. Due to these complex interconnections, one can see how the cynicism of plagiarists can easily be demolished. The consumers’ health is jeopardized by the poor results obtained by late-comers who, despite being in an inadequate position (due to lack of scientific, educational and cultural support), try to reproduce the successful results of others through misappropriation of their efforts and renown. This type of behaviour brings them neither respect nor credit. For example, the stability, the pharmaco-toxicologic harmlessness, and the enzymatic-cutaneous compatibility of Xalifin-15® (Vevy codex 02.0151) are a milestone (1959) in the history of the emulsion and are the result of Science. No less so is the efficacy of Auxina Tricogena®(Vevy codex 13.0275), which remains unaltered in the course of time because it is the result of Science as well.

The basic substances that have been developed for this purpose are not only conceptually inert, but are the result of Science, i.e. of seriousness, reliability, constancy and multifarious guarantees. Therefore, they are not merely the sum of the basic materials in an approximate mixture. In a previous paper we reported on Xalifin-15®, while in this paper we will describe some features of Auxina Tricogena®. Due to the aforementioned complexity, each substance that is earmarked for this sector is not merely conceptually inert, but it is the result of Science, i.e. of seriousness, reliability, constancy and numerous guarantees, all of which are unknown to those who resort to expedients.

The counterfeiter relegates Quality (and the whole, immense concept that universally supports it) to mediocrity by trying to astonish the discerning user through the mirage of a tempting price. As its INCI Name implies, Auxina Tricogena® is of vegetable origin, but it is not a mixture of extracts. Highly selective extraction techniques make it possible to obtain end solutions that are free of most non pertinent substances and that do not specifically contribute to the desired effect which, in our case, is a tricho-stimulating action in compliance with the bulbar anagen, catagen and telogen phases. Our priority objective was to identify and purify the active substance.

This was achieved by identifying which structures in the hydroxybenzylamide groups of ethylnonoenoic acid have tricogen activity. As reported by G. Pende, mucopolysaccharide hydrolyzates (Hyaluramine®, Vevy codex 17.0255) and cutaneous glycolysis activators (Carbossaline®, Vevy codex 18.1107) synergistically facilitate the active principles of Auxina Tricogena®. Furthermore, trials have shown that some removed fractions inhibit the bulb-stimulating activity, thus confirming that the total extracts are not effective. Moreover, the activity that stimulates the granulation of experimental cutaneous injuries remains unaltered, and this data has been applied to evaluate the active ACS-AntiCytoStressor®(Vevy codex 13.4566).

Auxina Tricogena® complies with the indissoluble cosmetic efficacy/harmlessness relationship, and it effectively nourishes the hair bulb while respecting the three phases of its life cycle. From a trichodynamic viewpoint, trichobulb nourishment means a stimulating action (clearly highlighted during the trial) of the hair bulb. This action distinguishes Auxina Tricogena® from other stimulating factors that act indiscriminately and that do not have long-lasting results (strong vasodilators, resorcin, pilocarpin, hormones).

The methodology we adopted to assess the hair growth action has been illustrated in cosmetology meetings in Rome, Milan, Barcelona and London. We would like to stress that the hair follicle is a biological entity around which delicate and complex phenomena, such as multiplication, growth, synthesis, and accumulation develop, as does the consumption of high energy potential material. In man, profound modifications of the piliferous system are associated with significant variations in the mast cell system, in its metabolites, and in some components of connective tissue. It is well known that hair development is affected by numerous endogenous and exogenous influences that interfere with each other.

It is therefore not overstated to affirm that the life and death of an apparently marginal cutaneous appendix depend on the complex and alternating inter-play of intersecting factors in the economy of the whole organism. Thus, when applying substances that have not been tested ad hoc, it is not unreasonable to fear a possible mid- to long- term inhibiting or strongly damaging action. This is why we once again state that in order to avoid the pernicious consequences of makeshift imitations which could jeopardize the health of consumers, there must be a long term anchor to Science through education and culture.