Published on Editorials  

As reported in a previous communication the increasing demand for environmental friendly and green cosmetics led the formulator to a quite forced, one-way switch to vegetable-derived ingredients, especially in the area of extracts, emollients and gelling agents.

Hydroplastidines and Lipoplastidines. Vevy Europe's Hydroplastidines (water-soluble) and Lipoplastidines (oil-soluble) plant-derived actives for the formulation of safe and effective topical products have already been described (see Lexicon Vevy Europe 1993, 4:42). However Vevy Europe developed and marketed several others selected, balanced and integrated derivatives from vegetable sources even long time before the quest for exclusively natural cosmetics began.

Auxina Tricogena (Vevy codex 13.0275). It is a water-alcohol soluble compound of functional plant fractions for the responsive and stimulant treatment of hair. Its action in increasing redox processes at the hair root has been found responsible for its capability of stopping, slowing down or reversing the progress of hair loss. Tricosolfan (Vevy codex 13.2083).

It is a vegetable oleoresin undergoing a particular distillation process to yield a highly purified product free from the usually considered less safe components of tars but retaining the same properties. Filagrinol (Vevy codex 18.2423). The balanced unsaponifiable fractions found in Filagrinol improve skin moisturization, texture and smoothness while also acting against UV-rays induced lipoperoxidation and skin aging as demonstrated by clinical tests. Daucoil (Vevy codex 13.0758). It is not only an emollient but mainly an anti-ageing active thanks to its high content in carotenes. Delta Rosa Moschata (Vevy codex 13.2612). It is a natural source of essential fatty acids obtained from a plant designated as an elixir of eternal youth by folk culture.

Fitoxantina (Vevy codex 13.0811) and Luteofilla (Vevy codex 13.0789). They provide natural colorants and the latter also protects against UV damage thanks to its carotene-rich content. Braxicina (Vevy codex 13.0774) and Elicrisina (Vevy codex 13.0856). They are the natural answer for the treatment of oily and acne prone skin. Fitoestesina (Vevy codex 13.0782), Zedomine (Vevy codex 13.1250) and Zedomine-2 (Vevy codex 13.3152). They are responsive and integrated compounds of essential oils for a safe and effective topical use.

Hydroessentials. An improved molecular distillation process allows the separation of water-soluble fractions of essential oils, Hydroessentials. These natural fractions added in very low percentages to water give the same fragrance of the original oil without the use of solvents, surfactants or solubilizers. Liquiritina (Vevy codex 13.0943). While flavouring toothpastes and mouthwashes, it acts also as an antifermentative agent. Nidaba-318 (Vevy codex 01.1216). If you are looking for the ideal surfactant for sensitive and damaged skin, Nidaba-318 may be the right choice.

Naturally-derived, it modifies the harshness of the common surfactants and has a skin softening effect, while boosting the foam and enhancing the finished product viscosity. Lipophos (Vevy codex 03.1230), Sitostene (Vevy codex 13.0983) and Octaprotein-colloid (Vevy codex 13.3646). While Lipophos and Sitostene can be used as co-emulsifier or in absorption bases, Vevy Europe's latest development in the area of plant derivatives is Octaprotein-colloid, the first example of a completely green new generation of ingredients which give stable gel-creams emulsifier-free and bring closer to a total pure natural emulsion.