SALYCUMINOL AND SKIN MOISTURIZATION

Published on Issues - Year 1998
Author Maddalena Donetti
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Tags of, cell, corneometer, lang_en, turnover, salicylic, Moisturization, Salycuminol, lipophilic, acid, keratinocyte, ester

The stratum corneum must be a well structured and limiting barrier to adequately protect epidermis, dermis and the more delicate underlying tissues. Homeostatic control mechanisms guarantee the right dynamics of the proliferation steady state between the basal layer and the the most superficial layers, balancing therefore mitosis rate and cell desquamation. As previously determined, Salycuminol (lipophilic esters of salicylic acid) helps an optimal cell turnover to safeguard skin well being: matured keratinocytes following the physiological cycle. It is known that the stratum corneum if too much moisturized (it happens only when immature, less dry corneocytes, indeed still keratinocytes, are present) can be easier permeated and therefore ineffective. On the other hand a too dry stratum corneum gives the same results meaning higher fissuration, inner layers direct exposure to external stimuli and again an insufficient skin barrier. Goal of a functional product is to recover skin physiology supporting the formation of competent protective cells. This study on Salycuminol was performed in order to verify the results obtained by application on skin having a mean or a high hydration rate. A significant moisturization increase was expected in the first case, a non significant one in the latter. Placebo application had to be ineffective. The results show that, by inducing the temporal recovery of the physiological skin cycle, Salycuminol allows the correct expression of an effective barrier to physical and chemical onsets. All experimental data concerning the corneometer studies performed are presented and discussed.