Deux sûretés valent mieux qu'une

Published on Healthy Chemistry  

Jean de la Fontaine (1621 - 1695) wrote in his Fables (IV, 16) that "Deux sûretés valent mieux qu'une et le trop en cela ne fut jamais perdu" (Two are better than one and any surplus never went lost). In our case, the task of providing the finished product with new safety features with regards to stability as well as and harmlessness is entrusted to Cetacene. Due to its peculiar chemical structure, Cetacene (Vevy Codex 03.1350), which is obtained in Vevy Europe's Laboratories, belongs to the acetylated glycol stearates with a high hydrophilic rating. It is a wax-like, white solid body, turned into flakes or drops, which melts at temperature above 50°C. From a pharmacotoxicologic viewpoint, Cetacene is very well tolerated by the skin and mucosa. Cetacene is used in cosmetic and dermatologic preparations for both healthy and diseased skins as well as for the accessible mucosa of the oropharynx and urogenital cavities.

Cetacene makes it easier:

  1. to produce a more homogeneous structure of creams and sticks;
  2. to obtain creams, ointments and sticks with better plasticity;
  3. to give a delicate and non greasy feeling to all finished products, especially to skin oil;
  4. to give a highly emollient effect to all finished products;
  5. to provide all finished products with excellent resistance to sudden changes in temperature (longer shelf life, non deformation in warm climates and non brittleness in cold climates);
  6. to control release of the active principle (Transdermal Delivery by the diffusive agent);
  7. to have uniform resistance to sticks (non brittleness);
  8. to supply hair conditioning action in creme rinses;
  9. to provide lather control in baby shampoos;
  10. to give a calibrated soothing and softening effect in personal hygiene products;
  11. to provide homogenous pigment dispersion in foundation make-up.

The relevant skin properties of Cetacene can be summarized as follows: emollient, protective, diffusive, whereas its most important chemical-physical characteristics are: stability, homogenicity, dispersiveness. Cetacene makes eosin soluble thus opening up new horizons for the formulation of lipsticks. Nesatol (Vevy codex 03.0197), which we discussed in Lexicon 2, 1999, is as oxidation resistant as Cetacene which it dissolves thus creating highly stable and plastic oleolites, ointments and emulsions. (Plasticity means that the physical characteristics of the finished product remain constant even during temperature changes or during mechanical variations induced by utilization and application). The perfect tolerance of Cetacene matches the tolerance of Xalifin-15 (Vevy codex 02.0151) which has defined as a bioemulgoid in Lexicon 2, 1999. Adding these two ingredients to Nesatol oil in numerous finished products forms a protective and emollient emulsion which is especially suitable for delicate skin. A protective emollient oleogel is obtained by using Lipogelag (Vevy codex 04.3535) and Cetacene. In order to obtain hydrogels, Cetacene is hydrodispersed in water at 70°C together with Ixol-8 (Vevy codex 04.1010) and is then gelified with Idroramnosan. By means of this process excellent emollient gels whose protective lipid film can be removed with water is obtained. The product should be integrated with Filagrinol (Vevy codex 18.2423) if a specific moisturizing ability is required. Cetacene is highly innovative when used in producing nail products (nail polish removers, hardeners, nail polish).