APPLICATION OF SKIN ENZYME ACTIVITY TESTS TO THE SAFETY AND EFFICACY ASSESSMENT
Authors Giorgio Rialdi , Maddalena Donetti , Stefano Dorato
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Enzymes are biological catalysts, present in all cells which might be useful for cell metabolism or may act elsewhere outside the cell.
Enzymes intervene in dozens of chemical reaction and without them there is no reaction between the substrate or anyhow it does not happen in correct time. Any chemical capable to inactivate an enzyme is potentially toxic.
Enzymes can be classified as glycolytic, hexosemonophosphate shunt enzymes, Krebs cycle enzymes, nitrogen and fat metabolism enzymes.
Enzymes in the skin might be endocellular and extracellular, they are essential in order to maintain skin good conditions, contribute to the right skin pH and maintain skin protective capability against pathogens.
To inactivate an enzyme, or the trace elements primary for its activity, may result in metabolic disorders.
Since 1976 Vevy Europe raw materials for skin application undergo trials to determine their possible enzyme toxicity or activity through checking of the different sequential steps of sugar, fat and protein metabolism. Several examples of studies on ATPase, alfa-naphtyl esterase, leucine-aminopeptidase, succinic-dehydrogenase and acid phosphatase following the topical application of a specific ingredient will be presented and discussed.